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It was the end of 12 glorious days in Italy with my husband, and we were sitting outside a tiny cafe on one of the oldest highways in the world: the Appian way, eating croissants with the rest of our Walks of Italy tour group. A young couple was mid-way through their one-week blitz through the country, and I was dizzy from the sound of their itinerary.
“You’re going to visit how many cities in six days?”
I nearly choked on my cappuccino. We felt like we barely saw the country in two weeks of travel, so I couldn’t comprehend how this couple was going to visit twice as many places in half the time.
I made eye contact with Matt and smiled. I knew he was thinking about that day in Positano he wanted us to do too much and how, after we left that beautiful town, he would have been just as content sitting on our hotel balcony the whole time, soaking in the beautiful Mediterranean view.
There were definite wasted moments during our 12 days in Italy. It’s surprisingly easy to spend more time trying to figure out how to “see everything” than actually seeing everything.
The key to travel is always less is more. This isn’t your how-to-see-ALL-of-Italy-in-12-days guide. This also isn’t the perfect guide to Italy either. We made a lot of mistakes; however, some of those mistakes turned out to be our favorite memories from the trip. Here’s how we explored Italy along with a few recommendations and highlights.
12 Days in Italy
- Day 1: Arrive in Rome
- Day 2: Explore Rome
- Day 3: Amalfi Coast
- Day 4: Explore Positano
- Day 5: Day trip to Capri
- Day 6: Day trip to Pompeii
- Day 7: Travel to Tuscany
- Day 8: Day trip to Bologna
- Day 9: Explore Florence
- Day 10: Explore Florence
- Day 11: Back to Rome
- Day 12: Visit the Vatican
1. Arrive in Rome
Arrive early, take a nap, and explore the neighborhood you’re staying in. We booked a small AirBnB apartment in the historic heart of Rome.
- Budget Tip: Free admission at the Pantheon
- Where to Stay: Rent an apartment in the historic heart of Rome for easy walking to most sites of interest.
- Where to Eat: Trattoria der Pallaro: No menu; you eat what the Nonna is making that night in the form of a five course meal. Delicious, authentic Italian home cooking, but not cheap
2. Explore Rome
Learn something about the city. Whether it’s through a tour or on your own, absorb the culture, past and present.
- Budget Tip: learn some history and fill your belly all at once by booking a food tour
- What to Do: Avoid the crowds and book an evening tour of the Roman Colosseum
3. Travel to the Amalfi Coast
If coming from Rome, you can go by direct bus or by trains. However, the direct bus from Rome to Positano only runs during a certain part of the year. Keep in mind you will spend most of your day traveling.
- Budget Tip: Stay at the Hotel Vittoria for a delicious continental breakfast (included with your stay). During your time there, take advantage of the complimentary room delivery. Book a room with a view and have breakfast on your balcony.
- Where to eat: Have your hotel book you a reservation at a restaurant with outdoor dining. An easy walk from Hotel Vittoria, we ate at Next2. A bit pricey, but so worth the views, food, and calming experience after a long day of travel.
4. Explore Positano
It’s easy to just meander in Positano. Take a walk, go to the beach, or do a little shopping. Take the day to explore at a leisurely place.
- Where to Eat: Lunch on the pier at The Brasserie and dinner at Constantino’s – once you have dinner there, it will be hard to eat anywhere else. Have your hotel make a reservation; the restaurant will send a complimentary shuttle to pick you up.
5. Day Trip to Capri
We booked a boat tour and it was such a lovely experience. The captain stopped to let our tour group take a quick dip in the mediterranean. The boat tour includes a stop to see the blue grotto, but it was closed due to the sea and its fickle behavior.
As for Capri, it swarmed with tourists. For instance, we felt like we were on the Amazing Race trying to work with our tour group to beat the other tour groups to transportation to the top of the island. If you have limited time, choose one activity.
We really lucked out and in our search for a bathroom, and stumbled upon the Villa San Michele: a quiet and beautiful sanctuary from the tourist madness with beautiful island views.
If Capri is a must-see for you, devote more time to visiting – at least a half day.
6. Day trip to Pompeii
Book a guided tour of Pompeii. If you are not a guided tour kind of person and refuse to book any tours on your trip, this is the one area where you should suck it up and do it anyway unless you’ve been before and know everything about Pompeii. This is not just an excavation site. This is an entire city…like Rome.
- Budget Tip: pack a picnic lunch. The dining hall on site is crazy crowded.
7. Travel to Tuscany with a stop at Civita di Bagnoregio
We felt the best way to see Tuscany while traveling to our next destination was to rent a car. We picked a location mid-way at random to stop in: Civita di Bagnoregio.
- Where to Stay: we stayed at the beautiful agriturismo, Il Bacio (Translates to “The Kiss”). In addition to the location allowing for easy day trips to Florence and Bologna, you simply cannot beat the views.
8. Day Trip to Bologna
Sleep in from your previous day of travel and then head to Bologna for sight seeing, delicious food, or the Opera. Opera season in Italy was at an end when we went, but we were lucky to find that Bologna’s opera house (one of the oldest in all of Italy) was performing Verdi’s Macbeth.
9. Half day in Florence
Explore your Agriturismo and then head out to Florence for lunch and exploration, ending with a leisurely stroll in the Boboli Gardens.
- Where to Eat: Trattoria Anita – Porcini mushrooms are in season during this time of year (October) and we ate a huge Porcini “steak” – delicious!
- Budget Tip: If you want to see the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (or as most know it, the famed Duomo), take advantage of the free tours offered by the student docents
- To clarify, the tour is free only for the church, not the basilica or dome.
10. Florence
Florence is known for their collections of art. The Uffizi and the Accademia host amazing works of Art, so if you want to see it, these will take up an entire day. Keep in mind admission tickets are purchased with time slots so be sure to plan your day carefully to allow as much time as needed. Don’t forget to plan a break for lunch!
- Budget Tip: Avoid the Uffizi cafe – super pricey and the worst cappucino and croissant we had in Italy
11. Back to Rome
Drop your rental car off in Rome and take a taxi to your next hotel.
- Budget Tip: Strongly consider whether or not it’s worth it to stay in a 5 star hotel. They are not for everyone. We stayed at Aldrovandi Villa Borghese. Since this trip was for celebrating our five year anniversary, Matt wanted to book us a really nice stay in a fancy hotel. We waited two hours for our room to be ready, and during our stay, we felt nickel-and-dimed for everything. Not to mention, you’re kind of far from the hustle and bustle of Rome – which could be a good thing if you’re just wanting to enjoy the property rather than venture out. It also seemed like a lot of the guests in this hotel were there for business rather than leisure. All in all, it was a gorgeous hotel and we had a beautiful room, but we’ve come to realize we are not 5 star hotel people.
12. Rome
The Vatican is about a half-day event, therefore we booked the Sistine Pristine tour because this place is huge and overwhelming and you get early access. On your last evening, head out to one of the many beautiful piazzas for dinner and La Passeggiata (evening stroll) to sum up your 12 days in Italy.
Avoid the Crowds: Book an early entry Vatican tour.
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